What I love most about this stew is that it showcases the simpler side of Persian cuisine. Many of our khoresh (stews) use multiple ingredients and take quite a while to cook, but khoresh aloo esfenaj has a shorter ingredient list and is easy to prepare as a weeknight meal.
The most unique ingredient in this dish is aloo zard, Persian golden plums. Not only are they bright and beautiful in color, but, more importantly, they are far more dynamic and flavorful than many plum varieties, which tend to be mostly sweet. Aloo zard is both tart and sweet, adding a depth of flavor that’s simply unmatched.
A few words on Persian stews, which require certain skills that are not always explained in many recipe books.
Let’s start with the concept of ja-oftadan. This is the idea that the stew needs to rest off the heat for a while after it has finished cooking, allowing the oil to collect on the top. This step highlights the dish’s richness, showcasing the chef’s pride in their dast pokht. Dast pokht (“the skillful hand that cooks” in Persian) refers to the cook’s skill and knowledge.
Persian stews generally don’t follow the straightforward approach of adding all ingredients at once and cooking them together. Instead, they require a delicate balance of techniques and a careful sequence of ingredients. Iranian dishes prioritize presentation and flavor—sometimes, I have to admit, even at the expense of nutrition.
Persian stews are never runny or watery, a rule familiar to every Iranian but not always easy to achieve!
Your passage is insightful and engaging! Here are some minor adjustments for clarity and flow:
Revised Version:
I have taught Persian cooking classes in Seattle for nearly 20 years. Looking back at my own recipes from long ago, I see the errors in my techniques and a reminder of my early lack of experience. Often, my khoresh was runny and not properly ja-oftadeh (set). These days, I strive to convey all the techniques I’ve learned (my dast pokht) in my recipes.
To make Persian food more accessible, I often suggested substitutes for less readily available traditional ingredients. However, in 2020, I’m a little less inclined to promote too many substitutions—unless, of course, they’re absolutely necessary. Persian ingredients and markets are now more accessible and available than ever. Check out my resource page for recommendations.
A final word: though you can make this dish with regular plums or even other dried fruit, the true flavor comes from aloo zard.
Conviction!
Khoresh Aloo Esfenaj
Ingredients
- 1 large onion, thinly sliced
- 4 tablespoons ghee or olive oil, divided
- 1 lb lamb, cut into 1 inch pieces
- 1/2 teaspoon turmeric, ground
- 1 1/2 cups water, adjust as needed
- 1 teaspoon salt, adjust to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, ground
- 1 cup Aloo Zard, Persian golden plums
- 4 tablespoons Ab Ghooreh (unripe sour grape juice), or lemon juice, adjust to your taste
- 4 bunches spinach, roughly chopped
Instructions
- In a large frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of ghee and saute the onions on medium heat for about 10 minutes before adding the lamb and turmeric. Continue to saute for another 5 minutes. The lamb and onions should have turned a beautiful golden color and become aromatic.
- Add water, salt, pepper, cover, and cook for 60 minutes on low heat or until the meat is fully cooked and tender.
- In the meantime, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of ghee and saute the spinach over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes until the spinach has fully wilted and most of the liquid has evaporated.
- Once the meat has been cooked, add the Aloo Zard and Ab Ghooreh and increase the temperature a bit so to remove most (but not all) of the remaining liquid. The stew should not be overly watery.
- Add the previously sauteed spinach to the meat mixture, lower the flame, cover and cook for another 10 minutes.
- Serve the Khoresh with Persian steamed basmati rice with a side of yogurt.
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